La Sologne
la Tarte Tatin from Les Demoiselles Tatin
The famous Tarte Tatin
Under the bend in the River Loire , which starts near Glen , curves around Orleans and meanders onward to Blois, lies La Sologne. Georges Sand , despised it. Its landscape was” moody and vulgar” , the inhabitants” pale even livid” – Lucky if they lived to be 20. Woods were unkempt, ponds stagnant , villages half empty. But it has changed. Narrow roads still criss-cross tracts of neat woodland studded with hamlets of half timbered cottages. Etangs , bordered by rushes, shine through curtains of trees. At night , on a back lane, headlights catch the twin beads of a mesmerized deer’s eyes. Somewhere between the “now” and “then”, Sologne became a fashionable retreat. Thanks to Napoleon III who purchased a castle in the 19th century.at La Motte -Beuvron. His example encouraged contemporary capitalists to build holiday homes, brick Chateaux – over 400 of them. The Nouveaux riches with social aspirations turned a desolate wasteland into managed country estates. In their walled gardens they grew strawberries and asparagus. For entertainment , they shot or they hunted.
Romorantin is a pretty town but sleepy ( population 19,000) is Sologne’s titular capital. My own favorite experience of the town was at the Relais de Sologne in Menestreau -en-villette, where an 11 year- old wine” from Sauger” was served with a vegetable and Foie-Gras terrine. Honeyed , luscious yet still fresh, it was fit for a king. The restaurant also dished up a venison cutlet, delicious with a dark civet-like-vinous sauce. The chef, Didier Hurtebize is very well connected . Advertising himself as a “ restaurateur traiteur”. He cooks the traditional lunches that are part of the ritual of private shoots.
Domaine du Ciran, a wildlife conservation centre near Marcilly-en-Villette, has its own farm producing fresh goat’s cheese and fromage blanc, The plates coming out of the kitchen have vibrant colours because the chef’s focus is more on the vegetables than the protein. Nothing compares to the ceps ( Wild mushrooms) picked an hour before she sauteed them.
Christian de Froberville encourages visitors to pick wild mushrooms, with an expert on hand to help the public identify them. His approach to conserving the game does not involve a blanket condemnation of hunting: ” of course you have to cull wild animals – I hunt myself – but it is very important to manage the ecological balance”. That approach to maintaining a varied a varied , healthy wildlife population involves ringing, tagging and logging. Hunters in every commune record what they bag. They have quotas, too. Subscriptions to the federation de la Chasse subsidise.
Where to stay.
Ferme des Foucault, menestreau-en-villette ( 00 33 2 47 49 21 49) ferme-des-foucault.com
Beautiful, isolated brick farmhouse b&b surrounded by woods.
Grand hotel du Lion d’or 69 rue Georges -Clemenceau, Romorantin- Lanthenais ( 00 33 2 54 94 15 15) hotel-liondor.fr) , Elegant and typical of Relais and Chateaux style.
La Maison d’a cote 25 rue de Chambord , Montivault ( 00 33 2 54 20 62 30; la maisondacote.fr) 1 km from the Loire. Cool, modern country inn , with friendly service.
L’oree des Chenes La ferte Saint Aubin ( oo 33 2 38 64 84 00) loreedeschenes.fr) 3-star country hotel
Chateau de Beauharnais 172 rue du Prince Eugene, La Ferte Beauharnais ( 00 33 2 54 83 72 18; chateaudebeauharnais.com)
An aristocratic b&b in Empress Josephine’s family home.
Where to eat
Grand hotel du lion d’or, chef Didier Clement’s precise and delicate cooking.
Le Relais de la Sologne, 6 Place du 8 mai 1945, Menestreau-en -villette ( 00 33 (0) 2 38 76 97 40) ; lerelaisdesolognes.com)
Generous , well flavoured, uncomplicated cuisine, that was once the glory of the French countryside.
L’assiette au boeuf 21 rue des trois marchands, Blois ( 00 33 (0) 2 54 74 61 10). It is an undiscovered gem of a bistro.
Regional Specialties
Tarte Tatin. upside down caramelized apple tart is attributed to the Tatin sisters
Unpasteurized goat’s cheese ( Selle-sur-Cher, St Maure), can be purchased from the farm of Jean-Pierre Moreau at 80 rue de Montrichard, Pontlevoy.
Cout – Chevreny AOC wines can be bought at the gate of the domaine des huarts winery in Cour Cheverny.
