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When the mistral blows, the air is just crystal clear. In summer the sun-soaked landscape turns blue with fields of Lavender. To the north is the Triscatin where truffles flourish under the white oaks. To the south between the former Roman settlements of Vaison and orange, a carpet of vineyards extends as far as the Foothills of Mont Ventoux and across the fertile Baronnies. A string of Villages, like Gigondas, Vaqueyras or Chateauneuf-du-Pape- with its 13 grape varieties -all produce full-bodied wines. To the east, mountain roads twist and turn between alpine rocks. Lower down, they pass by sheep grazing on the moors before fading away toward Sault and the Lure mountains. If you are in this part of Provence, go to  Chateau de Suze -La Rousse ( 04-75-91-83-55) . Set amidst the vineyards and truffe oaks, this veteran of many wars has belonged to three great Provencal families. If you go visit, do not miss the 14Th century  curtain wall  that conceal a magnificent couryard and interiors painted in delicate pastel shades. As a visitor you can trace interior design developments from the 16Th century Frescoes in the arms room to the ornate 18th century plasterwork in the Four seasons salon.  Also the Chateau de Grignan, this beautiful estate has withstood the mistral since the 11Th century. The opulant but very intimate rooms  boast Aubusson- tapestries , canopied 17Th – century  beds, walnut Floors and oval family portraits. The covered walkway leads to a steep staircase down to the village. ( Worth the stop).

Make a stop in Nyons, the French writer, Jean Giono called it an” earthly paradise” in which the mountains create a microclimate ideal for olive trees.  Look out for the moulin Autrand, an 18Th century olive press, and the jardins des Aromes, with fragrant medicinal plants like Lavender, Sage, Nutmeg and Passionflower.  Another stop is Vaison- la-Romaine, a little bit of history if you go there ; In the first century BC the Romans turned the properious Vasion into their empire’s finest cities.  The quartier de la Villasse, patrician villas , artisans’ workshops , pools surrounded by statues , a theater and bath bear witness to what was once a thriving town.  Want to make another stop and do wine tasting? go to Gigondas, a small village of grape varieties, produces some of Provence’s most full bodied wines. You can stop by the cellars in the main square and also climb up the citadel to get a view of the vineyards and the castle ruins.   Go to chateauneuf-du-Pape and do some wine tasting.

Mont Ventoux, famous for the Tour de France, on a clear day you all 6,500 ft of “the Giant Provence”, with the observatory at the summit as it rises between the Rhone Valley , the vaucluse Plateau and the Massif des Baronnies. A great road, as it zigzag past orchards, dense pinewoods and bare limestone.

Do Visit Carpentras and Orange. Carpentras until the 19Th century had a large jewish community. All that now survives is France’s oldest synagogue , founded in the 14Th century. Its sanctuary and bread ovens are still intact. Orange, you will see the might of the 1st century Rome is revealed in all its glory in this amphitheater , one of the best preserved relics from antiquity. On the road  leadind northward, out of the city , is a fully intact  triumphal arch.

Wineries

Cave des Vignerons, route de Sablet ( 04-90-65-86-27)

Beaumes- de -Venise, Vignerons des Beaumes de Venise, an immense wine cellar with video-presentation-perfect for sampling the fruity and wonderful Muscat dessert wine, served chilled.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chateau ( 04–90-83-72-75). Since 1923, the Fabre and Abeille families have produced Cotes du Rhone, Lirac and red and white Chateauneuf-du-pape on what were originally Papal Estates. They can be purchased directly from the chateau.

I highly recommend Le vieux- Four / Crillon – le -Brave. Excellent restaurant. They serve excellent truffles dishes during the truffle season.